Kool Breeze Cafe

By Erin Shultz
Tribune columnist

January 30, 2006 03:30 pm

— In the midst of a city full of restaurants trying to recreate invented nostalgia, The Kool Breeze Cafe is nothing short of refreshing.
The "Go Tigers!" banner and the rest of the nondescript kitsch plastered on the walls of the local chain eateries won't be seen here.
Instead, on the walls of the 2401N. Apperson Way (MAP) restaurant hangs an authentic Kokomo High School pennant, a framed Kokomo Tribune newspaper from when the 'Kats took the state championships and other memorabilia from the community.
In fact, every bit of the Kool Breeze is a part of K-town history, from the Continental Steel signs to the old green gas pump along the side wall (it came from a local station that closed down).
The old-fashioned soda machines are stocked with Coke in glass bottles, and they still work -- 50 cents will get you a refreshing cola on a hot day.
But the food at the Kool Breeze is just as authentic.
From its famous potato salad to its homemade meat loaf, everything is down-home cooking, just the way you remember it from childhood.
On a recent Thursday, I stopped by with a friend for a heaping helping of stick-to-your ribs comfort food.
Always ready to try something new, I squealed with delight when I saw the Kool Breeze serves fried green tomatoes.
"I thought that was just a movie," I said, a big grin plastered across my face.
When they arrived at the table, the little fried discs -- lightly battered, golden and crispy -- were incredible. They were crunchy and salty with a little bit of tang to them.
When we moved on to the dinner portion, I was excited to try the meat loaf, which the menu boasts is just like grandma used to make.
The dozens of people crammed into the small restaurant apparently also wanted to try the Thursday special (and why wouldn't you? For under $6, you get a salad, meat loaf, a potato and choice of vegetable.)
They were sold out.
I like to call that a "happy accident," because I ordered the smoked sausage, which, I think contained some sort of addictive substance. Tender and smoky, with that familiar flame-kissed barbecue taste, the sausage was an entire link of perfection.
The beans are prepared with bacon and the salad was really just iceberg lettuce, so for the massive numbers of vegetarians in the area, this might not be the place for you.
But for the carnivores among us -- the ones who love a juicy burger, tender steak or thick cut of pork chop -- this place is worth a shot.
The best part was when owner Dave Trine took a break from cooking and stepped out from the kitchen to say hello to all the customers.
He chatted with regulars and met newcomers, and isn't that what a hometown restaurant is all about?
Erin Shultz may be reached at (765) 454-8587 or via e-mail at erin.shultz@kokomotribune.com